Friday, June 12, 2015

Kushikatsu – Food of the Gods

Yes, I am American. Yes, I like to eat deep-fried, fattening things that are terrible for you but taste oh-so-good. It’s my life. I do try to make it a once in a while thing though. When people imagine Japanese food, they usually think of sushi, miso soup, some rice or noodles…not heavy, greasy, fattening stuff. The truth is though, Japanese people love fried stuff just as much as Americans do, and they have a whole cuisine dedicated to deep-fried stuff on sticks called kushikastsu which literally means fried, breaded meat on sticks. However, there are many other things besides meat. Kushikatsu ranges from meat to seafood to veggies and even cheese, eggs, and desserts, and it is my all time favorite Japanese food. It’s also served with a distinct dipping sauce. Beware not to double dip because the sauce is communal and shared among all the customers!

Kushikatsu.
Shinsekai, an area in Osaka, is where kushikatsu originated, and I often go there to eat it. Sometimes I make a special trip to a place in Namba where you bread it and deep fry it yourself when I’m feeling like interacting with my food. Recently, however, I was introduced to a new kushikatsu place just a 20 minute train ride from my town in an area called Kyobashi where I often go to drink and hang out. I actually think there are a couple branches of this place in Osaka, the original one in Shinsekai, but let me tell you why I like this place/branch so much…

Here's the store front.
When you go to Shinsekai, it’s very touristy, and the streets are lined with kushikatsu places since everyone wants to try where it originally came from. Yes it’s tasty, but there is something about it that seems a little unauthentic. It’s just really targeted towards tourists. This place in Kyobashi called 串かつどて焼 (Kushikatsu Doteyaki) is the opposite of that. It’s rundown and has tiny bar seating for about 10 people. The two heavyset workers are standing behind the bar sweating over fryers while waiting to make whatever you order right in plain sight. When they have a free moment, they start calling out to people passing by on the street from the open window to come in and try their food. They have all the staple drinks ready to satisfy thirsty businessmen, beer, chu-hi, highballs, and plum wine. They even have a few original flavors of chu-hi like 初恋(first love). There are a few different sides you can order like small rice dishes, soy beans, and so on. Also all the free raw cabbage you can eat. BUT, kushikastu is what it’s all about. And this stuff is legit! It’s all hand made in front of you, and they don’t skimp you on the size. You can get all your basics, but this place has so many things and daily specials you wouldn’t find at a tourist place. Some of my favorites include tomato cheese, katsuo, and the plump shrimp. Try the kushikatsu takoyaki or cream cheese with blueberry sauce if you are feeling like something fun.

From the left: tomato, Camembert cheese, shiitake
mushrooms, shrimp, salmon, and asparagus on the top. 
Katsuo.
Cream cheese with blueberry sauce.

Seriously though, I’ve been to this place twice and am planning on taking my boyfriend this weekend. I literally want to go every week, but I have done well to restrain myself. This place is so authentic, and I will no longer be taking my guests to Shinsekai to experience kushikatsu. Sitting at this small, dingy, hole-in-the-wall counter surrounded by drunken businessmen and smoke eating the best food I have ever tasted while gulping from a large pomegranate chu-hi makes me feel more Japanese than most other things ever could.

This is what real Japan is like.

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